This was Originally posted way back when on Zombie Squad, But I'm putting up my guides on here. Enjoy this one, more to come.
So, lets get started:
Tools List: Hammer, Nails, Sharp Knife, Tape Measure, Wax (prefarably bees, but tallow will do). Of course, String Thread. I'm gonna use Dacron B500, but you can use ordinary thread. However it must be plain untreated thread, and you should work out it's breaking weight. I'll explain this more later. Oh and you need a Fence
well, actually, and straight plank of wood you can hammer nails into will do, I just use the fence 'cos it's at a useful hight.
You now need to hammer in Nails, the distance between the nails will be the distance of the string. The Distance should be the Length of your bow, plus another 20". I'm 6', so my bow is 6', which makes my string is
This Long.
You also need to hammer in a third nail, this one 12" from one of other nails.
Now. we're gonna wind out the threads onto the nails, that will make our string. This string is for making a bow, so it needs to be extra strong and tough. I'll be making it at 50lbs (What I'd expect an adult male to draw after a little practice, and what I can draw comfortably for a few minutes). Now, This is where we need to know the breaking point of your thread. Your bowstring needs to have a breaking point of 6 times the draw weight of the bow, so the string needs to have a breaking point of 300lb. So if a single strand of thread, has a breaking weight of 5lb, we'll need 60 strands of it.
In this case, and because it's a string for making a bow, We'll be making it for really really rugged, means we'll use 18 strand, instead of my usual 12 strand. Dacron B 500 has a stretching point of aprox 25lbs.
So, what we're gonna do, is make 3 skeins of threads, each 1/3 the total number of threads required, so thats 3 skeins of 6.
So, tie one end of the spool to the nail
And unroll the spoll a way, and around the other nail 92" away, and bring it back, 3 times
Then cut the threads at either end, giving you 6 identical strands 92" long. One Skien
Now, do it again, and again. Giving you 3 skeins, of 6 threads each, 92" long.
Now, there is one part of the bow string that suffers most, where it meets the top limb in a loop, it is particularly prone to wear. So we are going to thicken the ends of our threads, which is why you have the nail only 12" apart.
Make 3 skeins of 6 threads only 12" long, and this is what you got
3 long, 3 short. If you are using ordinary threads, now you must wax them. warming the wax in your hands, and rubbing up and down the length of the thread from centre out woods, impregnate the thread with wax. If you are using the Dacron, or another modern bowstring material, don't worry, it's already been done.
Now comes a tricky bit. tapering the threads. With both your short and your long threads, they need to have a distinct taper so they will marry together well later. the best way to do this is by taking 2 threads from a skien, and placing one end of one, 1" below the end of the other.
Then, run the thread through your fingers, to ensure it sticks together and preseves the taper, the wax will hold it together.
Then you take another thread from the same skein, and put it another inch below, continuing the taper. Then run it through your fingers again and take another thread, and so on...
Till you have 6 taperd strands, 3 long, 3 short.
Now, take one long, and one short, and pinch them together, between finger and thumb you can hold them tightly in one hand, and marry the treads into each other with the other hand, starting like this
And working from the center of the taper to one end, then from the center of the taper to the other end. Giving you this
A solid thickened end of a single strand 92" long.
Do this to all the others, so you have only 3 long strands, thickened at one end. Then roll them up till you have about 18" left, sit comfortably, and put them parallel on the ground in front of you, with the rolled end to your right.
Then take the three strands firmly in your left hand, pinch them about 9" down from the end.
Now comes the fun bit, and the bit hardest to explain.
Using your right hand, grab the strand that seems furthest from you, twist it hard away from you using your thumb and forefinger. then bring it across the other strands, sip it under your left thumb and hold it tight. To avoid getting a tangle at your rolled ends, bring your rolled end across as well, towards your self.
The take the next strand, which should now be furthest from you, and do the same twist it hard away from you using your thumb and forefinger. then bring it across the other strands, sip it under your left thumb and hold it tight. Keep doing this, and rearranging your skeins, but resist the temptation to open your left thumb, keep it tightly bound.
After quite a while of this twisting, you can give in, and look at whats in your left hand
Nice, eh? a short bit of rope. But keep going, this short rope needs to be 4 or more inchs long.
Once you have this length of rope though. you form it into a loop
And pinch the free ends together. because at each end of the ripe there will be 3 strands, marry one short strand, to one long strand, as you can see in my picture.
Then you should just have 3 strands, with a loop.
Now, you begin twisting again. take the three strands firmly in your left hand, pinch them, then grab the strand that seems furthest from you, twist it hard away from you using your thumb and forefinger. then bring it across the other strands, sip it under your left thumb and hold it tight. Keep going till you've run out of tapered length, and have reach the plain 16 strand section.
Okay, so we have our loop and a short length of braided rope. Okay, Now we need to finish the rest of it.
Quite simply, pinch the bottom about 8 inchs from the end, and start doing exactly as before, twisting it hard away from you using your thumb and forefinger. then bring it across the other strands, sip it under your left thumb and hold it tight. Keep doing this till you run out of thread, and you are sorted. Tie a simple knot in the end to keep it in place, and your bow string is roughly done.
Now, your string loop end will look a bit scraggedy because of the ends not tapering in properly. If I take a lot of time and care, I can do this, but It's not worth it. Cut off loose ends, and when we wax it, they'll go down lovely.
Hook your loop over a nail, and pull it taught
Working from the ends to the centre, roll it round with your palm. Take care over this if it is a bow you want to get good accuracy out of. It isn't as important with a bowmaking string.
Now, we are going to hot wax soak the whole bally thing. If you use unwaxed threads originally, this is what you can do if you don't want to just outer coat them though this methord can make them harder to work.
Heat a small amount of wax (half a candle), in a pot or tin (I use two chinese meal trays, with some water in between).
Then you can soak the bow string in the melted wax.
You will need to remove this excess wax though, So I suggest either kitchen roll, or a good rag. simply wipe down and sponge off the excess The rag must be thick, because wax done like this gets incredibly hot, and you must change where you wipe it every so often else the wax builds up.
Once the whole string is done, the string is complete. With a regular waxing, this bowstring is waterproof, and a decently oiled/varnished bow is shootable in any weather condition, provided your arrows flights are waterproof (I'd use untreated goose for this).
Roll the string again for roundness, and if you want you can add a string serving (I do, but I didn't document it this time, despite having thread ready, because I had to cook my little brothers dinner).
But a String serving is just a tightly bound length of coloured thread around where the arrow will be released from, to protect the string from chafing by the nock.
A bow is nothing without it's string. Use wax plenty and often, and at the first sign of fraying, change your bowstring, as a broken string often means a broken bow (and there is nothing worse than your favourite, handmade, self yew longbow shattering at full draw.) You cannot get away with using a simple length of cord or string for this, you really do need a specialist bowstring.
The bowstring I describe above is only one style, there are others, such as the famous Flemish style, with a loop at both ends,.
Now, I'm not an expert, I'm an amateur. But I hope you guys like it.
